We were having drinks this late Friday afternoon at Ourselves Alone, a terrific speakeasy just off Stroget, when we were suggested by the bar owner to try restaurant Pony for dinner. A phone call later we had secured an early table and off we went.
Pony lies on the west end of Vesterbrogade, in the hip Vesterbro neighbourhood. The founders of Pony are also the same guys behind the Michelin starred Kadeau. As in Kadeau there is a heavy focus on Bornholm produce, a Danish island South of Sweden. Compared to Kadeau Pony is the cooler, younger sibling. It’s less refined and unpolished.
If I could define what a typical new Danish Bistro is Pony would be a good example. Laid-back and street cool staff, wooden furniture with a splash of Danish design are all part of the formula. Not to forget the food in which it’s not too uncommon to find some elements of herbs, rawness and lightness.
One of the first thing you’ll see after being seated is a map of Bornholm on the menu where all sourced producers, I suppose, are mapped out. The food geek inside of me resonated with this “over” information.
Whipped butter is not a bad idea to keep it light. The airy soft texture makes it easier to spread as well. On the contrary it lacks the richness of normal butter but then it puts more focus on the bread instead. As expected in Copenhagen the bread offered keeps a high standard.
The turbot starter was light and had this rawness that is typical for New Nordic cuisine. The ingredients spoke for themselves in this rather simple dish, though some extra element to bind together the fish and the greens would be nice.
Yet another plate of green food, asparagus and charred leek. More cooked components as a transition to the main. Flavours were still quite light.
From green to orange. A plate of pork, shaved carrots with carrot sauce was presented. I liked the flavour of the sauce. It had a faint zing and added moisture to the pork. Simple and well combined flavours. This was my favourite of the evening.
The rhubarb had quite some sharpness which was offset by the ice cream. The biscuit crumbles added a nice texture and some nuttiness. This dessert had a good balance of sweetness and had similar lightness to previous dishes.
I really enjoyed the dinner at Pony. It had a warm and welcoming atmosphere. The food was honest and well prepared. Flavours were light and natural in the beginning of the meal and opened up as the meal progressed. On the service, Danish restaurants I’ve been to so far know how to nail the right balance of attentiveness without being intruding and serving refined food in a casual environment. No exception here. The location might be a bit off for first time visitors in Copenhagen but perfect for a night out in the Vesterbro area. On a side note I can recommend two bars our friend took us to not far from Pony: Duck and Cover, Lidkoeb. Lidkoeb may seem like any other drinking venue when first entering but the secret lies in the top floor where they have a dedicated whisky bar offering single cask malt whisky from the Scotch Malt Whisky Society. It’s also much more quiet upstairs. Be ready to spend though!
All in all, a perfect evening with food and drinks in Vesterbro area. Next time in Copenhagen I’ll try to visit Pony’s older sibling and Michelin starred Kadeau for another dose of Bornholm.
For more photos from Pony, please visit my Flickr set.
Tel. +45 3322 1000