A few weeks ago I spent a weekend in Stockholm, one of the most scenic cities in Europe. Summer is the best time to go when it’s much more enjoyable to explore the archipelago. The city is less famous for a vibrant food scene but there are still some interesting places. Due to the very ad hoc decision to go many restaurants were unfortunately fully booked already. In the end we ended up in Östermalm, an area full of exclusive residential building, antique shops, young people with too much to spend, upscale clubs and what we were here for: good food. We went to Restaurang Volt which falls into the category of new Nordic cuisine. It’s right in the heart of Östermalm, humbly tucked into one of the calmer streets.
The dimly lit restaurant is fairly small with around 40 covers. The whole space was pretty much black and white with a few sparsely coloured paintings on the white walls and furniture in dark wood. The sommelier offered us the small hand written wine list with some quirky wines while we were waiting for our table to be cleared. My sister unexpectedly spotted Garance Doré two tables away and even more surprising was I knew who it was! Restaurang Volt offers both à la carte and tasting menus. We both had the six course tasting menu.
This is a very unusual and rustic Sauvignon Blanc from Sébastien Riffault’s 0.7 hectar plot dedicated for his Skeveldra wine in Sancerre. It’s an organic wine with no fining or filtering done. The amber colour is a rare sight for a white Sancerre and so is the taste. It has a hint of smokiness on the nose and is quite rich with a buttery character and some lemon.
This appetizer set us up for a good start of the 6 course tasting menu. The vinegar against the buttery mayonnaise-like sauce with pumpkin seeds was a pleasant palate opener.
I was curious about the lard with fennel seeds since I’ve never tried it with bread. The unflavoured lard itself turned out to be flavourless as expected and the addition of fennel seeds didn’t help very much. The soft butter was much more enjoyable. It was very good in fact. Bread was refilled throughout the meal which is always nice.
The whole dish was very refreshing. Nice crunchy texture from the raw artichoke. Baked Jerusalem artichoke cream was thick and creamy. There was a good balance between the different elements.
The acidity from the pickled garlic overpowered everything else. It’s a pity because the onion cream was very good and I wish there was more of it to offset the pickled garlic. The lingering after-taste reminded me that it would be difficult for the remaining dishes to be worse.
I’ve tried moose before as dried meat so this would be the first time having it as part of a dish. The thin slices were lean and tender with a salty edge. It was quite nice together with the sweet beetroots.
Love the presentation of this dish. The monkfish was done perfectly, firm and not overcooked. The creamy purée had a fresh zing and matched the fish well.
If last dish was about mellow richness this one would be the opposite. A pure clear cabbage broth was the backbone of the dish. Nothing was overpowering on the plate and each ingredient came out beautifully.
I don’t know what I feel for this dessert. Visually it looks like slabs of butter alternated by meringue plates. It’s when you bite in that the butter-like elements turns out to have quite nice flavours, although a bit one dimensional. The acidity became a bit overpowering towards the end unfortunately.
The petit four was a surprise. Chewy plain dried fruit, really? The cinnamon caramel was ok but the whole thing felt like a lack of effort.
As opposed to what the name of the restaurant suggests, the visit wasn’t electrifying. There were definitely some interesting elements though. The ingredients felt right for the season and gave the meal a feel of autumn. Best part of the dinner were the well executed mains. The downside was mainly the imbalance of flavours in some of the dishes.
For more photos from Restaurang Volt, please visit my Flickr set.
114 48 Stockholm
Tel. +46 (0)8 662 34 00