Restaurant BROR is a very interesting new addition to the Copenhagen dining scene that opened up its doors in April earlier this year. The men behind the restaurant are Samuel Nutter and Victor Wagman. The two former sous chefs of Noma set up Bror without the help of external investors which means that they have creative freedom over the food. This also means a trade-off in terms of interior and tableware. In this case I think it’s a good one. The restaurant profiles itself as a minimal and homely space. No lampshades cover the naked light bulbs hanging from the ceiling and a mix of vintage plates were used throughout the meal. A funny surprise was the wooden robot welcoming guests by the door.
The food is Scandinavian with some quirky touches. Like other prominent restaurants in Copenhagen Bror has to go through a compulsory comparison with Noma. The menu is definitely much more scaled down. It’s still about the ingredients and freshness but the food is more rustic and rough on the edges. Greens were used creatively and shaped the flavours for a few of the dishes. I was positively surprised over the food although arriving with high expectations and I’ll walk through why.
There were not many options on the menu so you might as well go for the 4 course tasting menu for 350 DKK which is not too bad. We added two snacks on top of the tasting menu.
These were a nice start of the meal. Deep fried minced meat with oniony tartare sauce is how I would describe it.
When this dish arrived the table I thought, what! A whole head was certainly not what we expected when we ordered fish cheeks. The wonderfully flavoured cheek cubes placed neatly on the top disappeared very quickly as soon as we digged in. Underneath was crispy bread dipped in flavourful fish stock.
I can’t give enough credit to restaurants that I’ve been to in Copenhagen so far for serving hot bread. I understand that it won’t come straight out of the oven but it’s nice to have it hot. It came with pine salted bone marrow butter (see below).
This was an amazing dish and also one of my favourites. The pine flavour was an interesting component in the sauce. It taste almost like it smells in the forest. The dish had a very green and fresh character.
The wolffish makes another appearance. This time with less drama. The interesting part of this dish was the contrast of the crunchy pickled and soft baked kohlrabi.
The pork neck was amazing. The meat was very soft and came with an intense spinach sauce. The burnt leek added some depth to the dish. This was a real and down to earth plate.
After a great main I thought that the bar was set too high for the dessert to beat but I was wrong. I looked at the menu and hoped that the strawberry dessert would be part of the tasting menu. It was! There were two main ingredients in this dish: strawberry and elderflower. The strawberries were from Rokkedysse Gård and had great sweetness. The elderflower ice cream was light and floral. A perfect dessert for a summer evening.
I must say that 350 DKK is quite good value for the meal. Not much of it goes to maintaining a lavish interior or fancy tableware as far as I could see within the restaurant so the value lies on the plate. The food is fun and feels genuine but most important of all, it is very good. For any visitors in Copenhagen I strongly urge you to try this place before the ripples reach the mass.
For more photos from Restaurant BROR, please visit my Flickr set.
Skt. Peders Stræde 24A
1453 København K
Tel. +45 3217 5999