Fiskebaren, simply translated to the fish bar, is an informal seafood restaurant in the middle of Kødbyen (Copenhagen’s equivalent to Meatpacking district). The founder Anders Selmer is an ex-Noma manager and sommelier. The area is full of galleries, drink venues and restaurants aside from various wholesalers so an early Saturday afternoon is not the most busy time of the day. Fiskebaren had just opened its doors when we came and we were greeted by a cheerful waitress who showed us to a table in the spacious room with a sit down bar in the middle. The room ticked a few boxes of Scandinavianess: concrete ceiling, cold interior colour palette, wooden chairs and tables in black.
The menu is equally simple. There was only seafood on the lunch menu for starter/main. Cocktails don’t come cheap at DKK 105 but then I don’t think Denmark is the cheapest country either.
The bread came hot, like straight out of the oven. The bread offering at many restaurants I’ve been to in London pale in comparison where it at best comes warm. It seems like a small detail but it is a nice touch that makes the difference.
The smoked Haddock came with potato, onion, nettle, bacon and pine. There was a faint smokiness in the fish which was perfectly cooked.
Pear, pear crumble, pear meringue, sherry vinegar ice-cream, cherry/beetroot gel and almond.
A lot of things were going on in this plate but it worked. Most components had a pleasant mellow character except the sherry vinegar ice cream, not in a bad way, just different. I thought that I wouldn’t be surprised by odd ice cream flavours any longer but I was wrong. The sherry vinegar shone through the dish with its distinct acidic sharpness.
The food was bang on, good ingredient quality and surprisingly good dessert. The casual staff made the place more warm than what the interior suggests. I believe that the buzz in the evenings will add another dimension to the restaurant but this was a calm and relaxing lunch, just perfect for a sleepy Saturday afternoon in Copenhagen’s Meatpacking.
For more photos from Fiskebaren, please visit my Flickr set.
1711 København V
Tel. +45 3215 5656